濮阳卷凉皮

来濮阳,你要是想急头白脸地吃一顿地方特色,那么濮阳壮馍、渠村鱼汤、濮城羊头、老城香肠下水、传统驴肉您可以去品偿;如果你想简简单单又有滋有味儿地解个馋,那么濮阳裹凉皮就应该是你的首选。

    Come to Puyang if you want to have a local meal with a spicy taste. You can try Puyang Zhuangmo, Qucun Fish Soup, Pucheng Lamb Head, Laocheng Sausage and Offal, and Traditional Donkey Meat. If you just want to satisfy your appetite simply and deliciously, Puyang Wrapped Cool Skin should be your top choice.

 

凉皮酿制取材于小麦面粉。先将面粉打糊,再加水揉制,洗出面筋蒸熟备用。把洗好的淀粉乳浆在特制的圆形容器里旋转、蒸煮,出锅凉置,一张凉皮就做好了。濮阳地处北方之“中”,气候最宜冬小麦生长。因为经历了冬雪覆压和长达8个月的冬蕴春生夏长,濮阳小麦大概最能钟集天地日月之灵气,所以制成的凉皮顔色洁白,光泽油亮,软糯筋道,自带麦香。

The dough for Liangpi is made from wheat flour. First, the flour is mixed into a paste, then water is added and kneaded, and the dough is washed to separate the gluten, which is steamed and set aside. The starch slurry is then rotated and steamed in a special round container, cooled, and set aside, and a Liangpi is ready. Luoyang is located in the center of northern China, with a climate that is most suitable for the growth of winter wheat. Because it has experienced the weight of winter snow and the 8-month winter dormancy and spring growth, the wheat in Luoyang is probably the one that can best gather the essence of heaven, earth, sun, and moon, so the Liangpi made from it is white in color, shiny, soft and chewy, and has a natural wheat fragrance.


凉皮的传统做法是浇汁凉拌。取凉皮切条入碗,上覆黄瓜丝、芫荽或荆芥叶,点缀面筋块儿,淋上麻汁,红油辣椒自取,最后浇入两大勺花椒茴香桂皮香叶熬制并调入蒜汁生抽诸味的秘制汤汁。当亮润润、绿盈盈、颤微微、漾着汤汁的一碗凉皮端上来,一定足以使你的味蕾向碗绽放了。

The traditional way of making cold noodles is to serve them cold with a sauce. Take the cold noodles, cut them into strips, and put them in a bowl. Cover them with julienned cucumber, coriander or mignonette leaves, and garnish them with dough cubes. Pour sesame oil on top, and the red oil chili sauce is optional. Finally, pour over two large spoons of the secret sauce made from fennel, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and soy sauce, with garlic sauce added. When a bowl of bright, green, quivering, and soupy cold noodles is served, it is sure to make your taste buds burst into bloom.


除了拌着吃,全国的凉皮大概只有在濮阳及周边还可以裹起来拿着吃。先依次夹取黄瓜丝、芫荽叶、面筋块儿,撒上花生碎,点入耗辣椒,淋上诸味料汁拌匀,倒在展开的白亮溜圆的凉皮儿上平摊开来,一时间像打开了珠宝铺,苔翠盈铺,珠玉琳琅。后缘起卷,左右收边,再卷向前,柔软油润的凉皮随形就势,无需捆扎,即裹即成。一个裹制的凉皮手可盈握,质感沉柔,色泽莹润,白中隐隐透绿,间红带黄。咬上一口,汁香味浓,柔韧脆爽,一口足以入魂。

In addition to mixed food, Liangpi in the whole country can only be wrapped up and eaten in Puyang and its surrounding areas. First, take cucumber shreds, coriander leaves and gluten blocks in turn, sprinkle peanuts, pour in consumed chili, pour all kinds of flavoring juice, mix well, pour them on the unfolded white and round Liangpi, and spread them evenly. For a moment, it looks like a jeweler's shop has been opened. The back edge is rolled up, the left and right edges are rolled back, and then rolled forward. The soft and oily Liangpi is shaped without binding. A wrapped Liangpi can be grasped with a firm hand. It has a soft texture, a bright and moist color, a faint green in white, and red with yellow in between. Take a bite, the juice has a strong aroma, is flexible and crisp, and one bite is enough to enter the soul.


在濮阳,凉皮是最平民化的小吃。闹市小区、乡野村头,只要有人的地方就有凉皮儿。一副菜刀案板,一面调味台,三两个条桌方凳,就是一爿凉皮小店。凉皮的价格7元一碗或者一个,也有6元、8元的,依据店面位置、名气大小而定。算起来濮阳凉皮也仅有四十多年的历史,据说最初是在中原油田石油会战时由西北石油工人家属带过来的。而裹凉皮却是濮阳的原创,是钟灵毓秀的龙都大地上诞生的凉皮升级版。只是第一个发明裹凉皮的人已无可自证,可叹这位高士也只得继续寂寂无闻于民间。

In Puyang, Liangpi is the most popular snack. In downtown communities and rural villages, wherever there are people, there are Liangpi. A pair of kitchen knife chopping board, a seasoning table, three or two tables and square stools, is a small shop with Liangpi. The price of Liangpi is 7 yuan a bowl or one, and there are also 6 yuan or 8 yuan, depending on the store location and reputation. In addition, Puyang Liangpi has a history of only more than 40 years. It is said that it was first brought by the families of northwest oil workers during the war of Zhongyuan Oilfield Petroleum Society. But wrapping Liangpi is the original creation of Puyang, and it is an upgraded version of Liangpi born on the land of graceful Longdu. But the person who first invented wrapping Liangpi has no evidence to prove himself. Alas, this high scholar has to continue to be unknown among the people.

注意了,濮阳裹凉皮的读法应该是“裹凉皮儿”,只有加了这个儿化韵才正宗。在濮阳,很多人经常是“裹凉皮儿”一说出口,口水就跟着下来了。自认为是资深吃货的你,濮阳凉皮儿这一课怎能落下?

Note that Puyang wrapped Liangpi should be pronounced "wrapped in Liangpi", and only with this rhyme can it be authentic. In Puyang, many people often drool when they say "wrapped in Liangpi". You think you are a senior foodie. How can you learn the lesson of Puyang Liangpi?


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